Posts Tagged ‘fashion’

M&S cynical exercise in greenwash

April 26, 2012
M&S CEO Marc Bolland and Joanna Lumley at The Old Truman Brewery in Brick Lane, London for the launch of new campaign 'Shwopping'.

M&S CEO Marc Bolland and Joanna Lumley at The Old Truman Brewery in Brick Lane, London for the launch of new campaign 'Shwopping'.

I listened with growing incredulity to the M&S breathtaking crass hypocrisy and exercise in greenwash on You and Yours BBC Radio 4 this lunchtime.

M&S are shedding crocodile tears at the amount of clothes that are dumped every year in landfill. A billion items of clothing they claim. Their solution is that we take all our unwanted clothes to M&S for recycling, and no doubt replace with new clothes whilst we are there.

Cut out the middle man, take your clothes direct to a charity shop.

Support slow fashion, not fast fast; dress for style, not fashion; buy quality, not rubbish.

Is it necessary to replace what is in a wardrobe every few months with new clothes?

In M&S their food is over-packaged. I suggest we return all our packaging to M&S.

M&S charge 5p for a plastic carrier bag. Read carefully the small print: Only 1p goes to an environmental charity. This a cynical ploy to milk the customer and to distract from their over-packaging.

Why no paper bags in M&S for our loose fruit and vegetables? The bags can then be recycled or composted.

The stuff we buy spends less than six months in our homes before it continues on its one-way linear trip to landfill or incinerator.

- The Story of Stuff

M&S compared the recycling of clothes through their stores with the successful recycling of glass bottles! When was the last time anyone took a glass bottle back? We recycle glass, not bottles!

Yes, we need to reduce our waste and energy consumption. We do so by reducing consumption and increasing recycling, not by taking our unwanted clothes to M&S and whilst we are there replacing old for new.

When you donate to charity shops, choose the smaller charities who do not throw away after a couple of weeks what you have taken the trouble to donate. Avoid Oxfam and British Heart Foundation who rip off customers with the prices they charge. Another reason to avoid Oxfam is that they are the partners in this greenwash scheme with M&S to encourage increased consumption.

Are people really this gullible that they fall for a cynical exercise in greenwash?

Shwoping is a slick marketing campaign to encourage easily led fools to empty their wardrobes and run off down to M&S to buy more clothes. Green it is not.

A green campaign, which shwopping claims to be, would encourage slow fashion, to buy quality, to value our clothes, not throw them away.

Shwoping is not sustainable fashion.

Slow fashion’ was coined by Kate Fletcher. It has evolved from slow food, is part of the slow movement.

- Do we recycle enough of our clothes?
- Disposable clothes
- Oxfam rips off its customers (yet again)
- M&S launches ‘shwopping’ scheme
- Joanna Lumley joins M&S to launch shwopping
- Joanna Lumley launches Marks & Spencer’s Shwopping campaign

Scarves for Solidarity

April 5, 2012

Scarves for Solidarity are designed by Catalina Estrada. Monies raised go to support Laboratorio del Espíritu, a project in Colombia.

I just couldn´t possibly feel happier and more proud to see one of my favorites projects ever finally starting to come out. It´s a dream come true and I hope you like it as much as I do.

After visiting the Rural NGO Laboratorio del Espíritu (directed by amazing Gloria Bermúdez) a few months ago, I was totally in love with their project, it completely stole my heart.

Their aim is to promote local development with activities focused on the value and strength of the rural areas with special dedication to Arts and Crafts. Their main base is a Rural Library and Community Center located at Vereda Pantanillo, Municipio de El Retiro – Antioquia, Colombia.

Catalina Estrada illustrated Moments, a diary with quotes from Paulo Coelho.

Slow fashion: artisan designers supporting projects for the rural poor.

Fast fashion: global corporations exploiting sweatshop labour.

scarves for solidarity

scarves for solidarity

scarves for solidarity

scarves for solidarity

poetry in scarf by 9 year old Francy Arledys González Castañeda

poetry in scarf by 9 year old Francy Arledys González Castañeda

Poetry in this scarf written by 9 year old Francy Arledys González Castañeda:

Yo soy el fuego que arde en las tardes
Yo soy el sol del día que ilumina
Soy las nubes que corren
Yo soy la flor roja de amor
Soy el agua pura del río
Soy Dios que viene desde el cielo
Soy la lluvia que cae del cielo
Soy los pétalos que caen del viento
Soy el viento que sopla con amor
Soy la naturaleza que crece y crece

I’m the fire that burns in the afternoons
I’m the sun of the day that illuminates
I’m the pure water of the river
I’m God that comes from the sky
I’m the rain that falls from the sky
I’m the flower’s petals that fall from the wind
I’m the wind that blows with love
I’m the nature that grows and grows

——

Scarves for Solidarity pájaros

Scarves for Solidarity pájaros

Scarves for Solidarity pájaros

Scarves for Solidarity pájaros

poetry in scarf by 12-year-old Jhon Jairo Rojo Flórez

poetry in scarf by 12-year-old Jhon Jairo Rojo Flórez

Poetry in this scarf written by 12-year-old Jhon Jairo Rojo Flórez:

-¿Si tuvieras 24 horas de vida, qué harías?
-Deshacerme de todo lo que tenga
Ver payasos
Recorrer la vereda
Ver los pájaros
Ver como los pájaros salen del huevo

-¿If you had 24hours of life what would you do?
-Get rid of everything I have
See clowns
Walk along the village
Watch the birds
Watch how the birds come out of the egg

——

Scarves for Solidarity pantera

Scarves for Solidarity pantera

Scarves for Solidarity pantera

Scarves for Solidarity pantera

poetry in scarf by 9-year-old Tania Flórez Lince

poetry in scarf by 9-year-old Tania Flórez Lince

Poetry in this scarf written by 9 year old Tania Flórez Lince

Soy el sol de mi cuerpo
Soy la nube negra cuando estoy triste y me siento fea
Soy la luz más bella de mi casa y cuando me enojo soy una pantera
Soy la estrella más bonita del universo y cuando lloro me apago todo Soy la luna que alumbra tu caminar y cuando me odias tanto me enojo y me pongo a llorar
Soy una nube negra, triste y fea
Soy la estrella más bella que te alegra
Soy el sol brillante que se alumbra con la alegría

I´m the sun of my body
I´m the black cloud when I´m sad and I feel ugly
I´m the most beautiful light of my house and when I get angry I´m a panther
I´m the most beautiful star in the universe and when I cry everything everything gets dark
I´m the moon that lightens your walk and when you hate me so much I start to cry
I´m a black cloud sad and ugly
I´m the most beautiful star that cheers you up
I´m the shinny sun that brightens up with happiness

——

Scarves for Solidarity pescados y fruitas

Scarves for Solidarity pescados y fruitas

Scarves for Solidarity pescados y fruitas

Scarves for Solidarity pescados y fruitas

poetry in scarf by 12-year-old Jonathan Camilo Arias Hincapié

poetry in scarf by 12-year-old Jonathan Camilo Arias Hincapié

Poetry in this scarf written by 12 year old Jonathan Camilo Arias Hincapié:

Agüelo yo te quiero mucho y un día de estos voy a ir a Bogotá
y le ayudo a trabajar y le llevo plata y comida, y se viene a vivir por aquí y nos ponemos a pescar pescados y truchas y capitanes y tilapia.
Y jugamos el cogido y cogemos guayabas y moras. Y ayudarle a mi papá, y le ayudo a venir y dormir y soñar y jugar mucho.
Y te quiero mucho y con cariño. Chao.

Grandpa, I love you very much and one of these days I will go to Bogotá and I will help you work and I bring you money and food and
you come to live here and we go fishing for fish and trouts and captains and tilapia.
And we play and we get guavas and blackberries. And we help my father and I help you come here, and sleep and dream and play a lot.
And I love you very much. Bye

—-

Notepads, notebooks and postcards available with these same images are available at the Laboratorio del Espíritu. If you want to pre order your notebooks, notepads please contact Laboratorio del Espíritu directly:

tel: (+57) 315 516 43 03 · e-mail: lespiritu@une.net.co

www.laboratoriodelespiritu.org

—-

Special thanks to Alfredo Molina for his generous donation of these scarves produced in Spain.

Special thanks to super talented Lucrecia Perez for sewing the borders of the scarves in Spain.

Special thanks to Esteban Clavijo, Jaime Zuluaga, Andrea Gutierrezand Adriana Arias from Línea Directa, for their generous donation of the scarves produced in Colombia as well as all the love and care they have put into this project.

Special thanks to Pancho Tolchinsky as always for his lovely pictures of the scarves.

Special thanks to those who would like to contribute with this beautiful project.

—-

Top Story in The Sue Searle Daily (Thursday 5 April 2012).

Killer jeans are still being made!

April 4, 2012
killer jeans

killer jeans

Killer jeans quite literally kill! Workers die from sandblasting jeans to give them that faded, worn look.

You can of course get the same look by buying faded second hand jeans, but that does not line the pockets of the greedy fashion industry.

Therein lies the difference between fast fashion and slow fashion. One is driven by greed, the other concerned with sustainability, where clothes come from, how they are made and the impact on people and planet.

In Bangladesh many sweatshops exporting jeans for brands including Levis, Lee, Diesel and Zara continue to sandblast and put workers’ lives at risk.

One factory owner stated that it was impossible to produce some of the designs requested without the use of sandblasting. Indeed workers told researchers from Labour Behind the Label that they are told to switch to using sandblasting, even if a buyer has said it is not be used, if they are too close to production deadlines. Others stated that production was often carried out at night to avoid detection by inspectors and auditors.

Workers interviewed suffered from constant coughing and breathing difficulties. They were using old machinery, and were forced to work up to twelve hours a day in dusty, poorly ventilated rooms, without adequate health and safety protection. Most interviewed had colleagues who had fallen ill.

There is a lack of medical care provided to workers and they face difficulties in getting adequate diagnosis and treatment, in part because of the low awareness of the issue among medical professionals.

This is not acceptable. More has to be done to ensure that brands take action to end all forms of sandblasting.

- Killer jeans are still being made
- Deadly Denim – Sandblasting in the Bangladesh Garment Industry

Slow fashion

March 31, 2012
slow fashion pledge

slow fashion pledge

Slow fashion is not a seasonal trend that comes and goes like animal print, but a sustainable fashion movement that is gaining momentum. — Jessica Bourland

Fast fashion is greed.

Fast fashion is exploitation.

Fast fashion is sweatshop factories, one factory pitted against another factory, one country pitted against another country.

Fast fashion externalises costs, destroys the environment.

Fast fashion is global corporations brainwashing sheep-like individuals that they must all look the same, dress the same, think the same.

Fast fashion is disposable clothes, wardrobes that must be emptied and replenished every four months.

Fast fashion, cheap clothes, clothes that are too cheap to repair, too cheap even to launder, come with a very high price tag.

Slow fashion is style.

Slow fashion is clothes we look good in.

Slow fashion is small artisan designers and dressmakers, who use natural materials.

Slow fashion is organic.

Slow fashion is Fair Trade

Slow fashion is taking unwanted clothes to charity shops to be recycled, buying clothes from charity shops.

Slow fashion is worth caring about, worth repairing, worth laundering.

Slow fashion treads lightly on the planet.

Slow fashion is sustainable.

‘Slow fashion’ was coined by Kate Fletcher. It has evolved from slow food, is part of the slow movement.

In The Winner Stands Alone, Paulo Coelho has a brilliant critique of fast fashion.

It is all about image, be it wearing the latest fashion or consuming a can of coke. We think we are in control of our own destiny, but we are not, we are being manipulated by con men.

Fashion. Whatever can people be thinking? Do they think fashion is something that changes according to the season of the year? Did they really come from all corners of the world to show off their dresses, their jewellery and their collection of shoes? They don’t understand. ‘Fashion’ is merely a way of saying: ‘I belong to your world. I’m wearing the same uniform as your army, so don’t shoot.’

Ever since groups of men and women first started living together in caves, fashion has been the only language everyone can understand, even complete strangers. ‘We dress in the same way. I belong to your tribe. Let’s gang up on the weaklings as a way of surviving.’

But some people believe that ‘fashion’ is everything. Every six months, they spend a fortune changing some tiny detail in order to keep up their membership of the very exclusive tribe of the rich. If they were to visit Silicon Valley, where the billionaires of the IT industry wear plastic watches and beat-up jeans, they would understand that the world has changed; everyone now seems to belong to the same social class; no one cares any more about the size of a diamond or the make of a tie or a leather briefcase. In fact, ties and leather briefcases don’t even exist in that part of the world; nearby, however, is Hollywood, a relatively more powerful machine – albeit in decline – which still manages to convince the innocent to believe in haute-couture dresses, emerald necklaces and stretch limos. And since this is what still appears in all the magazines, who would dare destroy a billion-dollar industry involving advertisements, the sale of useless objects, the invention of entirely unnecessary new trends, and the creation of identical face creams all bearing different labels?

How perverse! Just when everything seems to be in order and as families gather round the table to have supper, the phantom of the Superclass appears, selling impossible dreams: luxury, beauty, power. And the family falls apart.

The father works overtime to be able to buy his son the latest trainers because if his son doesn’t have a pair, he’ll be ostracised at school. The wife weeps in silence because her friends have designer clothes and she has no money. Their adolescent children, instead of learning the real values of faith and hope, dream only of becoming singers or movie stars. Girls in provincial towns lose any real sense of themselves and start to think of going to the big city, prepared to do anything, absolutely anything, to get a particular piece of jewellery. A world that should be directed towards justice begins instead to focus on material things, which, in six months’ time, will be worthless and have to be replaced, and that is how the whole circus ensures that the despicable creatures gathered together in Cannes remain at the top of the heap.

What are people buying into, what are they paying a high price for? It is not the designer on the label as the design will have been by a young designer who wants out to set up his own label. It will have not even have been made by the company, it will have come from some Third World sweatshop, a dollar or less at the factory gate, one hundred dollars or more retail. All that people are paying for is the label, the brand name.

Not to be confused with buying real luxury, quality, for example a Montegrappa pen made by craftsmen, for when we buy something of quality, we tend to cherish it and keep it for life.

Top Story in Lemondade (Sunday 1 April 2010).

- Montegrappa launch The Alchemist pen
- Disposable clothes
- Killer Jeans
- What is Slow Fashion?
- Slow fashion
- ‘Slow fashion’ is a must-have … and not just for this season
- Slow it Down: Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion
- Perfect Purses
- The Story of Stuff

The Story of Cosmetics

October 9, 2010

The Story of Cosmetics examines the pervasive use of toxic chemicals in our everyday personal care products, from lipstick to baby shampoo.

Top Story in The Digital Mission Daily (Saturday 7 April 2012).

Also see

The Story of Stuff

Lush Cosmetics – Our Environmental Policy

Asia Floor Wage

November 24, 2009

The idea behind the Asia Floor Wage is to create a basic living wage across Asian countries. This is to counteract the race to the bottom by companies like Primark, who put pressure not only on individual factories but also on the countries where the factory is located. If the factory owners do not lower their factory gate prices, which translates to lower wages, longer working hours, then the buyers simply source elsewhere. Factory competes against factory, country against country, profits go up, wages and working conditions go down, or in other words the classic race to the bottom.

The Asia Floor Wage Alliance, a large coalition of unions and labour organisations spread across Asia, is supported in the West by trade unions and NGOs and anti-sweatshop movements such as Labour Behind the Label and War on Want.

The Asia floor wage, ie a living wage, should provide sufficient for food costs and non-food costs of a standard family of 2 adults and 2 children. The wage should be earned during each country’s legal maximum working week, though not above 48 hours.

Please support Love Fashion Hate Sweatshops

http://www.lovefashionhatesweatshops.org

See

Asia Floor Wage

Stitching a decent Wage across boarders

Primark – the high cost of cheap fashion

Fruit of the Loom Campaign VICTORY!

No Logo

Primark – the high cost of cheap fashion

November 19, 2009
A trade free zone outside Primark in Cambridge

A trade fee zone outside Primark in Cambridge

Primark is at the opposite end of the fashion spectrum to Mango, Prada and Gucci. The clothes are cheap, dirt cheap. So cheap you can pick up a pair of jeans for less than a fiver. So cheap they are undercutting the charity shops selling secondhand clothes, though that in part is because the charity shops have gotten greedy and are ripping people off.

On my one and only visit to a Primark store it was easy to see why the clothes are cheap, they are of inferior quality. But then what do you expect when you pick up a pair of jeans for a fiver!

Cheap fashion comes at a high cost, a high human cost, a high cost to the environment.

http://www.labourbehindthelabel.org/campaigns/primarkspin/campaigninfoupdates/280-bristolprimarkaction

Labour Behind the Label and sister organisations have highlighted the human misery behind the production of clothes for Primark, the long hours, the below a living wage wages, the sweatshop conditions, the use of child labour.

Primark clothes are so cheap they have become disposable items, wear once and throw away. A one way trip to landfill, as unless donated to a charity shop to be worn again, the mix of fabrics used and the method of manufacture make it impossible to recycle.

http://www.indymedia.org.uk/en/2008/12/416126.html

Politicians fiddle and diddle whilst the planet burns, like lemmings over a cliff we are heading into the abyss of an irreversible climate catastrophe. We have to make deep cuts in our carbon emissions, starting with 10% cut in 2010. We have to bring CO2 down to below 350ppm in the atmosphere if we are to have any hope of stabilising then reducing the global rise in temperature.

http://www.1010uk.org
http://www.350.org

We tend to be so focused on transport costs, heating costs, that we overlook the embedded energy in the goods we make, the consumer junk we buy. A can of coke has roughly 2/3 of a kilowatt-hour of embedded energy in the can alone!

http://www.indymedia.org.uk/en/2008/12/415544.html?c=on

We buy our unwanted consumer goods, take them home where they become clutter, then throw them out. A one way trip to landfill.

http://www.storyofstuff.com

Primark is encouraging wanton consumption. As a comedian joked recently on the News Quiz, visit the Primark buffet, all the clothes you can wear in a single sitting.

We have heard of Fair Trade, well how about a Trade Free Zone? A group of activist set up their stall outside a Primark store in Cambridge with Free Shop. Want cheap clothes, well come to our stall, we pile them up high and give them away free!

http://www.indymedia.org.uk/en/2009/11/441426.html

Please support the Love Fashion Hate Sweatshops campaign.

http://www.lovefashionhatesweatshops.org

also see

Abercrombie and Fitch: A fashionista cult?

Paulo Coelho t-shirts from Mango

Gucci handbags

The Winner Stands Alone

Abercrombie and Fitch: A fashionista cult?

November 10, 2009

Monday lunchtime I was listening to a fascinating programme on Abercrombie and Fitch and its sister company Hollister. It was brand consciousness raised to a new level and how brain-dead teenagers are conned into parting with their money for a fabricated image, how easily they are manipulated. [see You and Yours, BBC Radio 4, 9 November 2009]

Appropriately enough, the programme started off with a couple of teenagers outside one of the stores. Asked why they were there, why they wished to enter the store and be parted from their money, the answer was: Duh, don’t know? Which could not have summed it up better. The interviewer was then asked to move on.

The interviewer then walked into a store, but was very quickly asked to leave by a store manager.

Abercrombie and Fitch is a very old, 19th century outdoors store established by its founders. Or was, it went bust in the 1970s. The name exists, and its myth is part of the sales pitch.

Hollister on the other hand is a mere decade old, a fabricated urban myth of the great outdoors, founded in 1912, a man called Hollister doing all sorts of daring do.

Those who work inside the store are the body beautiful. They are given a manual on how they must look, down to the hairstyle, length of fingernails, colour of nail polish. The body beautiful are the top of the hierarchy, those who work the night shift and not seen by the customers at the bottom.

Recruiters scour the streets looking for more body beautiful to populate the stores. The body beautiful are given free tickets to nightclubs to help spread the message.

A disabled shop worker who did not fit the body beautiful image was bullied and left. She received £9,000 compensation at an employment tribunal.

Many have described the the organisation as a cult, everyone has to think the group corporate mindset. A designer for the company described the CEO as a control freak.

One got the impression of a nightmare version of The Devil Wears Prada!

http://keithpp.wordpress.com/2009/10/19/the-devil-wears-prada/

And where are the clothes made?

Listening to the programme it was a case of life imitating art, the manipulation of the young, the fashionistas described by Paulo Coelho in his novel The Winner Stands Alone.

Also see

No Logo by Naomi Klein
http://www.bookcrossing.com/journal/5479499

Darshan by Irene Black
http://www.bookcrossing.com/journal/7330899

The Winner Stands Alone by Paulo Coelho
http://www.heureka.clara.net/books/the-winner-stands-alone.htm

Paulo Coelho t-shirts from Mango

October 20, 2009
Priya sher – Paulo Coelho t-shirt from Mango

Priya sher – Paulo Coelho t-shirt from Mango

In the spring Mango launched an exclusive range of Paulo Coelho t-shirts. Such is the magic of the magician that within days the t-shirts were the No 1 best selling item in Mango shops worldwide and shortly thereafter they sold out.

http://www.indymedia.org/en/2009/04/923797.shtml

In a strange ironic twist, life imitating art, the launch of the Paulo Coelho t-shirts coincided with worldwide publication of The Winner Stands Alone, a damning indictment of the world of fashion and film and the cult of celebrity!

http://www.heureka.clara.net/books/the-winner-stands-alone.htm

This autumn Mango has launched a second collection of exclusive Paulo Coelho t-shirts. These are already selling out.

http://paulocoelhoblog.com/2009/10/08/the-new-mango-collection/

All monies raised from the sale of the Paulo Coelho t-shirts goes towards supporting the Paulo Coelho Institute in Rio.

http://www.paulocoelho.com/port/ins.shtml

Please support the Love Fashion Hate Sweatshops campaign.

http://www.lovefashionhatesweatshops.org/

This evening The Witch of Portobello has its world premier at the Rome International Film Festival.

http://keithpp.wordpress.com/2009/10/09/the-witch-of-portobello/

The Devil Wears Prada

October 19, 2009

A couple of years ago I read The Devil Wears Prada by Lauren Weisberger. For the first few pages it is witty and amusing, but after the first 50 or so pages so incredibly boring. How can anyone write such trash, even worse read it? Did I really want to know what everyone was wearing? Her second book, virtually a re-write of the first only now the PR industry not the fashion industry, is marginally better.

http://www.bookcrossing.com/journal/5651041
http://www.heureka.clara.net/art/lauren-weisberger.htm

When I read the book, I thought maybe a short story, but not a novel. I also thought it would make a good film.

A few weeks back I picked up the DVD of The Devil Wears Prada and finally got around to watching it last night. I quite enjoyed it. A rare example of the film being better than the book.

The film is absolutely brilliant. Surprisingly it captures the essence of the book far better than does the book itself. Very clever is the opening sequence where you see the people heading to work but what you see is what is on their feet, their shoes, their boots. The performance by Meryl Streep is worthy of an Oscar. That by Anne Hathaway as the girl from the sticks is also good.

Far, far better than The Devil Wears Prada is the latest novel from Paulo Coelho, The Winner Stands Alone, published this spring. A damning indictment of the fashion and film industry and the cult of celebrity and how easily women are exploited in the name of fashion.

http://www.heureka.clara.net/books/the-winner-stands-alone.htm
http://www.heureka.clara.net/art/paulo-coelho.htm

The Winner Stands Alone in a way compliments the film, you get more out of the film, the inner world of fashion after having read The Winner Stands Alone, and the film in turn compliments The Winner Stands Alone. One is set in New York, the other in Cannes at the International Film Festival.

In the syrupy saccharine mini-feature that accompanies the film, the producer praises the director, the director the producer, everyone heaps praise on the screenwriter and trashes the previous screenwriters. Curiously Lauren Weisberger, who did after all write the novel, gets not a mention! Although the novel is rubbish, ironically Lauren Weisberger can write. She does though get a mention in the opening credits.

From what I remember of the book, the ending of the film is different to the book. I only got about halfway through the book and gave it to a Polish friend. She wished to see if the book was as bad in the original English as it was in the Polish translation. What was unforgivable I went out and bought another copy as I wished to see was it really this bad, did it not improve. Sadly no, it didn’t. Now, having watched the film and enjoyed it, I want to read the book again. How sad can you get?

I had originally bought The Devil Wears Prada for a Czech friend. I tried to find her books that were well written, not too difficult and interesting. Not easy to satisfy all three. She has absolutely no interest in fashion. Has a knack though to pick clothes she looks good in. No way, I thought, she will not like this book, a big mistake. Surprisingly she did.

Maybe I am missing something, like why do my Bulgarian friends post pictures of the shoes they are wearing?

The Witch of Portobello, based upon the novel of the same name by Paulo Coelho, has its world premier at the Rome International Film Festival evening Tuesday 20 October 2009.

http://keithpp.wordpress.com/2009/10/09/the-witch-of-portobello/


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